Friday 26 November 2010

Home sweet home

Finally I walked through my front door, 26hours later after embarking on my mammoth trip home from Sri Lanka.
The first thing I noticed was the huge temperature difference, crisp air and presence of snow. But then I took chance to take in my homely surroundings for a minute to realise the huge contrast from where I have come from. The street stood still, so quiet you could hear a pin drop, there was no hustle and bustle, beeping of horns or crashing waves from the ocean. I sat and thought of the people I have had pleasure to meet this trip, in particular:

Janeka and his brother Dipti (Leina) - the legendary tuk-tuk drivers who chauffeured us perfectly every day, which personally made the trip. Janeka also invited us back to his home one night, where his wife prepared an elaborate meal, including octopus curry and ceylon tea. We met the whole family which was amazing and eye opening to see the way in which others live. Janeka lives in a new property that has been built with Aid money, as his old house was destroyed in the catastrophic disaster of the Tsunami in 2004.
Harris - the Easybeach waiter who would laugh at everything. He was a saviour, not only did he bring us an abundance of toast in the morning, but he would also laugh at my jokes when nobody else in the group did (he probably didn't understand to be honest).

Sanul - a local ripper that I first met at Lazy Lefts. He would pull 360's at the drop of a hat and stick vert snaps, all on a board that you'd find hard to give away. We chatted a fair bit in the water over the trip, he'd hoot me into set waves and welcomed me to his home break Rams when I paddled out. He mentioned to me how he'd placed 6th in Sri Lanka this year, he stated how he'd lost a left fin and had been surfing this year with a centre fin there instead.
I decided to rally the boys together, where we club together a bag of goodies for him, new fins, solarez, fcs key, a T-shirt, a few mags and some bars of wax. Janeka took us to Sanul's so we could hand the bag over, I have never seen such a smile. The local ripper was beaming from ear to ear, we all felt good for it and I would like to think we've helped him out and put a good image across for us Devon surfers.

Now back at home, I'm strangely wide awake. Unsure whether it's the jet lag or the can of Relentless I downed on the way home to stay awake. Either way it was an epic trip and I'd love to go back, below are a few shots I got on the last day.


Tuesday 23 November 2010

Not long left in Lanka

Not long left now of our time in Lanka. It's been a quality trip, with great banter, fun surfs, heaps of food and plenty of Scrabble!
Today has been a highlight of the trip for me with some cracking waves at both the Rock and Plantations.
I'm now sat here thinking about how I'm going to miss this place and how strange it will be back home having to drive my van rather than just hopping in a Tuk-Tuk.
After checking the weather back home and seeing freezing conditions, I think I'm going to really enjoy this tropical sun set tonight.

Here's a couple shots.



Monday 15 November 2010

Slice..........

After a really great surf on Saturday afternoon, the lads were pretty stoked and keen to sink some beers and local rum - I happily joined in.

Once we'd had dinner, we decided to head to a party down in Welligama. With a local DJ, bar and plenty of like minded travellers, times were good............ but then Callum and I did the most annoying thing ever - stepped on glass!
Being intoxicated at the time it all seemed ok, the cut was disinfected and I didn't think much of it until I stood up in the morning - OUCH
Above show's the cut a day or so later and it seems to be healing well. Fingers crossed I should be in the water pretty soon.
Also on the plus side, the Mo is coming along nicely.

Friday 12 November 2010

Loving life in Lanka

Whilst sipping a cold coke at Easy Beach, I've been trying to figure out what I've had more of here in Lanka - Curry or surf.
It's a close call and so far they have both been bloody good!

We haven't had any epic points yet as a cyclone has recently passed by heading towards India, this has directly affected the quality of the swell in a bad way and produced less favourable winds. Due to this we've been heading for shelter from the wind to a place called Welligama. This horse-shoe shaped bay has dished up some super fun waves with long walling lefts and a few hollow rights.

I'm sat here in the sun with a big smile on my face, about to head off for another nail biting tuk tuk ride to surf again.

Here's something you don't see on the way for a surf at home!